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posted in General Discussion read more

I'd love to see a high-performance SocketCAN implementation with CBT. There are a growing number of tools and libraries out there that make this an awesome tool.

posted in Howto read more

The only way it would be better to stay in electric mode is if the electricity was NOT coming from your gas engine, in other words from regen. So if your work is all downhill and you can regen downhill to a fully charged battery, then you could use some of that to go back up hill, and the prius does that automatically.

If you force electric mode longer without a non-ICE source of electricity, then you are going to have lower mileage because of the triple conversion losses, whereas if you just run on gas directly, you only have one conversion loss.

EV mode: ICE-->Battery-->Motor-->Wheels
ICE mode: ICE-->Wheels (mostly) and you save wear on the battery.

The only real way to benefit is to add an external charger so you can charge from the grid, this way you don't buy gas. But if you do that, you're better off with a larger battery. The Prius has about 600Wh usable in the factory battery which is only up to 3 miles (if you're lucky) on pure electric. I put a 6.5kWh in mine. I could easily do 40 miles low-speed in pure electric, and 20 miles on the highway (ICE must rotate at highway speeds, so a lot of loss!)

posted in Howto read more

Again; WHY would you want to stay in electric mode longer?

posted in Firmware read more

Thanks Wacky, I guess I screwed up with my decimals! 1.0.6 != 1.6

posted in Howto read more

Yes, with some more firmware fleshing out and some decent client software. Right now it's effectively an unfinished product, and without custom firmware it doesn't do anything useful and I'm not aware that there is any useful client software. I'm definitely up for helping with this development.

This wasn't meant as a critique, but more a clear laying down of a certain use case.

Thanks Derek!

posted in Howto read more

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Prius V is all gasoline, meaning it's not got any other energy source than the gas. All the electricity ultimately comes from combustion. I did a plug-in conversion of my 2008 Gen2 years ago and installed a 6.5kWh Lithium-Ion pack in place of the .6kWh (usable) NiMh original. I'm not sure offhand how much usable capacity exists in the V, but it's probably around the same which means you can't really do what you want. Besides, Toyota has spent tens of thousands of engineering man hours to prefect the ratios for the best economy. I suspect if you tilt the balance toward electric it's just going to force the gas engine to run in long spurts to recharge the battery, putting more stress on the battery and actually REDUCING your mileage! If all the power has to come from gas, you are much better off avoiding to conversion losses.

Now if you plan on plugging it in, that's another story, but it's super dangerous and a lot of work for not much capacity. Mine would do about 40 miles city and 20 on the highway in all-electric with extensive mods. The internal capacity of the OEM NiMh pack combined with the larger mass and higher drag of the V, means you're probably lucky to get 2-3 miles of all electric even at only 25mph. And then, how does the battery get recharged?

Even after all the work I did on mine, it was a comparatively poor EV. I now drive a Nissan LEAF and I love it! Sadly, It's a much better solution than what I came up with and it's much more fun to drive. I still have the Prius in the family for occasional trips, but it's lucky to see a few thousand miles a year.

posted in Firmware read more

Shouldn't matter between the two, strange.

posted in Hardware and Wiring read more

I measure about 62mA on the 5V line (5.073V) for a total of about 315mW. I've modified my unit with 1K LED resistors in place of the 10K factory values for slightly more visible LEDs, so my current is probably a few mA higher.

posted in Howto read more

Often in past reverse-engineering projects I needed to be able to determine which CAN frames were coming from/to certain devices on a CAN bus. The way I did this was to make my own Microcontroller-based CAN bridge device. Then I broke the bus at several key points and inserted my bridge/log device. The micro would freely pass any CAN frames to/from the now split network and output a log file indicating direction. This is the best tool for reverse-engineering any CAN bus equipped system with more than 2 nodes.

In addition, the same device with different programming could act as a "mangler" by translating certain frames to change system behaviors. Say for instance you had a speed limiter in a car ECU the cuts power to the engine once it sees a certain road speed. You could instruct the mangler to look for the speed byte coming from the ABS ECU and once it hit a certain value, hold it from going any higher than that. Install this between the ABS ECU and the Engine ECU and viola, no more speed limiter! (As long as the instrument cluster is on the ABS side of the split CAN bus, it will continue to read correctly.)

I'd love to see these functionalities implemented in the CBT! We could even implement a 3-way splitter since the CBT has 3 transceivers. This way you could spoof/mangle messages to/from 3 different ECU's in one system at the same time. This would make the CBT a extremely powerful CAN hacking tool!

posted in Hardware and Wiring read more

The LEDs are current limited with 10K resistors, why so high? This makes them barely visible, if at all. The right thing to do is put low value resistors for full-brightness 20ma, then if you want dim or off, this can be done in software (PWM).

I compromised with 1K, which is 2-3ma (depending on LED).

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